Frequently Asked Questions

No. “Laguiole” is neither a trademark nor a company name. Laguiole is the name of a small village in south-central France where the iconic knife design was born in 1829. The name was never trademarked, so any manufacturer, French or otherwise, can legally put “Laguiole” on a knife or corkscrew. This is why quality and origin vary enormously between sellers, and why it pays to buy from a retailer who can confirm exactly who made your piece and where.

Look for a “Made in France” stamp (often on the blade or the corkscrew’s foil cutter), ask the retailer which workshop manufactured the piece, and be wary of prices that are far below what hand-finished French cutlery normally costs. If a “handcrafted since [early date]” claim seems inconsistent with the item’s design or price, treat it as a red flag. Buying from a specialist who names its manufacturing partners (e.g. Laguiole Tradition, Fontenille Pataud, Laguiole-en-Aubrac, Jean Beauvoir) is the safest way to guarantee authenticity.

Mostly yes, with nuance. Modern tools are used for cutting and shaping components, but assembly, polishing, spring-fitting, and finishing are typically done by hand by individual artisans, and each piece must pass quality checks before it’s approved. Fully hand-forged pieces (such as certain Damascus steel editions) also exist at the higher end of the range.

This is normal, especially on new corkscrews. The clearance between the screw and the spring mechanism is deliberately tight so the tool holds up over years of use; it will loosen slightly and smooth out with regular use.

Common options include exotic woods, natural horn, bone, stag antler and more unusual materials such as Damascus steel, mammoth ivory/tooth, or fossilized materials, depending on the collection. Each material has different care requirements (see below).

Forged blades are shaped under heat and pressure, which typically produces a thicker, sturdier blade and often includes a full bolster. Stamped blades are cut from sheet steel, making them lighter and generally less expensive. Both can be good quality; the right choice depends on how the piece will be used and your budget.

This is largely a matter of taste and maintenance: shiny finishes show fingerprints and small marks more readily but have a brilliant look; brushed finishes hide daily wear better and give a more understated, matte appearance.

We recommend hand-washing and drying immediately, especially for knives with natural handle materials (wood, horn, bone), as heat and prolonged moisture can dull blades, loosen handles or damage the material over time. Stainless steel components generally tolerate more, but hand care is the safest way to preserve the piece long-term.

For stainless steel blades, including Damascus steel, washing and degreasing pose no problem. However, avoid abrasive sponges (such as a “Scotch-Brite® scrub pad”) as they can cause micro-scratches. Be sure to dry the blade thoroughly after washing to prevent oxidation marks from forming.

To keep wood handle scales in optimal condition, wipe them with a cloth lightly soaked in linseed oil once or twice a year. If you use your knife daily, the natural moisture from your hands is generally enough to nourish the material on its own.

A well-maintained knife retains its sharpness and efficiency. To sharpen it, use a honing steel and follow two essential tips: sharpen the knife before the blade becomes fully dull and maintain an angle of approximately 20°. The easiest method is to rest the honing steel on a table for stability, then hold the blade against it at that 20° angle. Work along the entire length of the cutting edge, alternating sides. Since the honing steel’s coating does the work, there’s no need to apply excessive pressure.

Keep the pivot lightly lubricated with a non-oily, non-gumming lubricant, wipe the blade dry after use and avoid prolonged exposure to moisture. Occasional light polishing keeps natural handle materials looking their best.

It’s the traditional locking system used in most Laguiole-style folding knives: the blade is held open (or closed) by spring tension rather than a separate locking bar. It’s simple, elegant and has been used for generations, though it means the blade isn’t “locked” in the way a modern lock-back or liner-lock knife is.

Genuine pieces typically carry a manufacturer’s warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. Coverage and duration vary by brand and manufacturer, so check the specific warranty terms listed on each product page.

Please contact us before returning any item for repair. We’re unable to accept cash-on-delivery (C.O.D.) parcels, or parcels arriving with additional charges due (including customs charges). Return shipping is at your own expense.

Yes. Engraving is available on the inner handle or bolster, using either a fine diamond-tip technique or a more visible laser engraving. Turnaround time can vary, especially around holidays, so please contact us to check current processing times before ordering if you need it by a specific date.

For an order with a customization option (such as engraving), please allow approximately 6 weeks from the date of order. If your order is time-sensitive or needed by a specific date, such as a birthday, please contact us and we’ll do our best to accommodate it.

No, since these items are made to order.

We ship from either France or Singapore (for local Singapore orders). Our products are mostly made to order, so please allow approximately 5 weeks from the date of order for items without a customization option. Orders with a customization option (such as engraving) require about one additional week, roughly 6 weeks from the date of order in total.

Yes. Please note that any customs duties or clearance charges imposed by the buyer’s government are the buyer’s responsibility. If you’re ordering a pocket knife, we also recommend checking your country’s import rules in advance, as some countries restrict or require declarations for folding knives.

Yes. Once your order is ready to ship, we’ll provide you with a tracking number.

Cut the foil below the lip of the bottle, screw the worm into the cork at a slight angle until fully inserted, rest the first notch of the lever on the bottle rim and pull up steadily; switch to the second notch as needed to draw the cork the rest of the way.

A small amount of side-to-side play is common in traditional slip-joint knives and isn’t necessarily a defect, but excessive looseness or a blade that won’t hold its position should be checked under warranty.